WHEN MANLINESS CALLS
BE FAMILIAR WITH OUR FAQS
Watch the behind the scenes video to decide for yourself...and YES, it was.
FiberFix is a single use repair wrap that works so quickly because any moisture - even the vapor in the air immediately sets to work on forming that amazing FiberFix strength. For this reason, it cannot be partially used and stored for later. It is possible to cut the wrap with scissors before it is applied and repair two small items at once (See "Can I cut FiberFix into smaller pieces?").
Good Luck! We have tried a variety of methods for removing FiberFix. We have ground it off with a bench grinder, burned it off with an acetylene torch, cut it off with a chainsaw, blown it off with dynamite, etc. Unfortunately, we cannot recommend any of these methods because they will most likely destroy whatever you are trying to remove. The best policy is to make sure you mean it before you FiberFix it.
We recommend using the FiberFix Patch for jobs like boat hulls, bathtubs, and other flat surfaces.
If you have questions about whether FiberFix Repair Wrap is right for your job, just remember: if you can wrap it, use the Repair Wrap; if it's a flat surface, use the FiberFix Patch.
FiberFix repair wrap comes in 1 inch, 2 inch, and 4 inch widths, and picking the right roll is usually as simple as knowing the size and strength of the repair you need. The four inch width is 60 inches long and is best suited for large yard tools, posts, rails, pressurized pipes, and other high impact or weight bearing applications . The 2 inch width is 50 inches long and works well for things like furniture legs and mid-size tools. The 1 inch width is 40 inches long and is best for things like snapped tent poles, fishing rods, or hand tools.
Occasionally there are exceptions to these guidelines. For example, when trying to wrap pipe that has broken near complex joints or bends, it may be better to use several one-inch rolls instead of a 4-inch roll to wrap around difficult shapes or in tight places. As long as the break is wrapped with enough tightness, layers, and coverage on either side, any roll size could potentially FiberFix your item.
When FiberFixing a pipe or a hose up to 60 PSI, follow these guidelines to ensure a strong watertight repair. After turning off the pressure source to the pipe, check the surface you are wrapping. If it is glossy or smooth, like PVC, it’s important to rough it up with the sandpaper so the FiberFix can grip it well. For best results, sand in the direction it will be wrapped, and clear the debris from the pipe. Second, choose a roll that is long enough to allow you to wrap 8-10 times over the break and 2-4 inches on either side of the break. For most pressurized pipe leaks, the two or four inch wrap is best. If you are working in tight spaces or with complex shapes like joints and elbows, several one inch rolls that meet the coverage requirements may be more effective. Third, when making a water-tight seal, it’s important to wrap FiberFix as tightly as possible. You should see the pressure force the resin to the surface as you wrap. When you are finished, work in the resin with your hands to seal any spaces in the FiberFix. Finally, tightly wrap the FiberFix in the vinyl strip to keep it sealed while it cures. In a few minutes, remove the vinyl, and you should have a very durable watertight fix.
The vinyl plays a key role in making your FiberFix repair even stronger. After you apply the FiberFix and work the resin in with your gloved hands, temporarily wrap the vinyl strip over the repair. This presses the layers of the wrap even more tightly together and seals the surface as it cures. It’s often helpful to begin right where the FiberFix strip ended. As you wrap, you should feel the vinyl stretch a bit and the pressure should even force some of the resin out the sides. It may even feel a little warm to the touch. That’s just another sign that the FiberFix is curing well.
In a few minutes the FiberFix should be fully cured and you can remove the vinyl strip. The FiberFix should appear almost glass-like, revealing a repair that is tighter, stronger, and smoother than a FiberFix repair without the vinyl.
FiberFix original repair wrap is heat and cold resistant between -50 and 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Although this range is suitable for most purposes, some applications, like furnace systems or some auto parts must hold in more extreme conditions. For these applications we have FiberFix Heat Wrap, which withstands temperatures up to 850 degrees Fahrenheit (or 454 degrees Celsius).
Yes! FiberFix cuts very nicely with scissors. Just be sure to wipe them off afterward. :) If you're repairing more than one item, consider asking a friend to help work on multiple items at once so you have plenty of time to apply it before it starts to cure. Remember, you can also try smaller sizes of FiberFix! Smaller widths are purposely shorter to make them more useful for smaller repairs (the 1 inch roll is 40 inches long and the 4 inch roll is 60 inches long, with the 2 inch sitting happily in the middle at 50 inches).
FiberFix can be found online in many parts of the world! This particular site, however, currently ships only to the United States. To purchase FiberFix in Canada, please visit FiberFix Canada. Sales outside of North America are managed by distributors with independent websites. For information about international distribution or about becoming a distributor, please email firstname.lastname@example.org.
Nope! No need for a thermometer here. As mentioned above, FiberFix simply cures faster in warmer conditions and slower in cooler ones. We recommend water at approximately room temperature because this conveniently allows for a quick cure while leaving enough time to wrap it well (3-5 minutes). With hot water, there may not be enough time to perform the repair while cooler water will result in a slightly longer wait before the item is ready to be used.
Good Luck! We have tried a variety of methods for removing FiberFix. We have ground it off with a bench grinder, burned it off with an acetylene torch, turned it off with a lathe cut it off with a chainsaw, blown it off with dynamite etc but unfortunately we cannot really recommend any of these methods because they will most-likely destroy whatever you are trying to remove FiberFix from. The best policy is to make sure you mean it before you FiberFix it.
We love that FiberFix comes with gloves for protection, but sometimes it just happens! Acetone products (such as nail polish remover) can be helpful in removing FiberFix resin, and good ol' scrubbing with a rough surface (such as the backside of a sponge) can go a long way, too! If all else fails, any residue you can't get off will be gone after a couple days.
One of the best features of FiberFix is that no special tools are required! Just add water. The box includes a pair of nitrile gloves (not latex- if you were concerned about reactions) FiberFix is nontoxic, but you'll want to keep the resin off your hands. The sandpaper is used to give FiberFix a better grip on rough and glossy surfaces, such as PVC pipes. The vinyl strip is a temporary option you can apply on top of the wrap for a few minutes to help it seal while it's curing.
The idea for FiberFix actually came when a surgeon used casting tape to repair his ATV in the desert; however, FiberFix is much harder to get off than orthopedic casting wrap, so we recommend leaving casting to the medical pros!
Currently we only offer black, but in the future we will offer different colors and patterns.
Absolutely! Once FiberFix has hardened you can sand it and paint it for a great-looking fix!
If you can wrap it FiberFix can probably fix it! FiberFix will not bond as well to glassy smooth surfaces, but most of the time the included sandpaper should help!
Yes! FiberFix is safe for potable water.
While Fiberfix does not burn easily, it will burn if exposed to a sustained flame.
How long is the FiberFix 10X Tape?
The 10X Tape is 20 yards.